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PercyUK
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Update
04/12/18 at 09:15:45
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Just a quick update for everyone. I have managed to complete the rebuild of the transfer case and gearbox, replacing the clutch as I went and am close to starting her up this weekend. All the rubber mounts were replaced as a matter of course and anything that needed cleaning or oiling was done as I went. I am keeping my fingers crossed that all is well and hopefully I will be able to drive her for the first time without crashing gears etc etc. I will let you know how it goes.
  
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RICKG
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Re: Update
Reply #1 - 04/12/18 at 11:06:36
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Good Luck!
  

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athawk11
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Re: Update
Reply #2 - 04/12/18 at 18:59:08
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RICKG wrote on 04/12/18 at 11:06:36:
Good Luck!


X2 !

Always an exciting day. Cool
  

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PercyUK
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Re: Update
Reply #3 - 05/17/18 at 09:54:31
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Well I finally managed to get her out and took her up the road. The gears were ok until I turned and came back then managed to crunch 2nd gear. I am hoping that it is just tight and that there are no problems. The ignition was not right and she was running rough. I still couldn't get the dizzy to turn as it has been stuck since I got it so I finally resorted to a three leg hub puller secured behind the body, welded a rod onto the end then slid a heavy weight over the rod to make a slide hammer. It came out but is rusyt beyond repair. I have a new one coming soon. I also found that despite my efforts to tighten the steering up the jeep steers like a boat so the knuckles will be my next job and go from there. I am looking forward to being able to drive it to my local pub !!! Regarding the steering what is everyone's thoughts about the most common cause of the vague steering ?
  
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mtnman37879
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Re: Update
Reply #4 - 05/17/18 at 11:47:18
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Check your bell crank. If it is sloppy you'll steer like a boat.
  

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PercyUK
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Re: Update
Reply #5 - 05/18/18 at 07:36:18
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Hiya, I have already replaced that, in fact machined it to fit. I will have a look at all the joints as I go to see if anything else is clearly worn before dealing with the knuckles.
I have read about mixing 140 with chassis grease to make a suitable oil for the knuckles, what is everyone's idea of chassis grease in the USA is it the normal stuff that you may use to lube the grease points in the pedals, steering, UJ's etc ?
  
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1955CJ-5
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Re: Update
Reply #6 - 05/18/18 at 12:46:21
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I think chassis grease is too heavy/thick.

Some have recommended CV joint lube, comes in a little tube and can be added directly to the knuckle.

I mixed up a brew of John Deere corn head grease( part number AN102562) and 140wt gear oil and injected that with a squeeze bottle and tube. Kind of a mess. See picture!

The corn head grease is an "0" grade grease, so is pretty thin.

  

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1955CJ-5
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Re: Update
Reply #7 - 05/18/18 at 13:27:50
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As for the steering...lots of possibilities..

Watch your sector shaft where it exits the gear box. See how far it moves in and out before it begins to rotate as you turn the steering wheel. If it is loose there is an adjustment screw(with a lock nut) on the opposite side of the box that will put pressure against the sector and reduce some of the looseness. Use caution though....the worm is usually worn more in the center, so if you tighten the sector shaft so it feels really good in the center it may lock up when in a turn, and you'll be headed for the bushes....so check it thoroughly with the front wheels off the ground before driving.

The sector shaft may also move fore and aft if the bushings are worn.

Toe-in is important also..

My 3a was pretty good after replacing all the ball-ends and knuckle bearings, and adjusting the steering box.

The CJ-5 needed all that plus a new steering shaft/worm gear and sector shaft. It steers pretty good now...

If you rebuild the steering box, the nubs on the sector shaft can be removed, rotated 90° and welded back in place. The originals were better quality than the reproductions. But if the shaft is badly worn, you may not be able to re-use it



« Last Edit: 05/18/18 at 13:28:30 by 1955CJ-5 »  

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PercyUK
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Re: Update
Reply #8 - 05/22/18 at 03:10:20
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I think I have found the problem and it's not good.
Whilst  trying to sort the tracking I noticed for the first time that the rear axle does not line up well with the front. The rear Passenger wheel is sat 2" further in to the wheel well than the drivers side. And it almost looks like it is canted in some way.
I fear that  the frame is bent unless the previous owner, who changed the rear springs, has fitted it in some drastically incorrect way.
I plan to measure it all up over the next few days but I am already fearing that my plans to drive it this summer are unlikely as I strip the whole vehicle back to the ground and work out how to straighten it !!
  
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Re: Update
Reply #9 - 05/22/18 at 11:50:03
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Well damn.  That doesn't sound good.  Double check your tub mounts to frame.  Perhaps the tub is partially out-of-wack for some reason.
  

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Re: Update
Reply #10 - 05/22/18 at 12:01:02
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You might check the rear (and front for that matter) springs and make sure they are the same length comparing left to right.

The springs ought to have a center bolt head ( I think it is a tapered pin threaded on one end) that fits into the center locating hole on the axle as in the pictures.

Post pictures if you can and maybe we will see something...
« Last Edit: 05/22/18 at 12:03:10 by 1955CJ-5 »  

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RICKG
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Re: Update
Reply #11 - 05/22/18 at 13:10:18
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I'm hoping for something as simple as bent/broken U-bolts or mis-alignment of the springs on the perches..

Last year @ BHR Stan's jeep had a broken/missing rear spring center pin, the springs shifted, lost their place on the perch, he went out of line quickly..
« Last Edit: 05/22/18 at 13:14:54 by RICKG »  

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PercyUK
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Re: Update
Reply #12 - 05/23/18 at 08:03:18
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I will be dedicating this coming weekend to see if I can identify the cause. I will update you all soon with the good ....or bad news. Having looked at it a few times I can't see anything that would suggest that it has suffered any damage so am hoping that it is a misalignment issue before fearing the worst. !!
  
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PercyUK
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Re: Update
Reply #13 - 05/25/18 at 08:27:43
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Hi, well I have done some measuring in it would appear that apart from a few MM here and there the frame is in fact straight.
However I have discovered that the read axle is "canted" so not square to the chassis. Thus one hub is in effect an inch further towards the front that the other !!
Upon examination it is clear that on the passenger side the axle  sits further forward on the spring than it opposite side ,something I did not think could be done as the spring has a center bolt head that locates in the axle mounting.
These were new springs fitted by the previous owner....clearly badly.
Question:  Are the springs handed ie left and right ? and are they equal length from the center bolt to each end, ie could the previous owner get it the wrong way round which may account for the axle sitting further forward on that side.
Any thoughts ?
PS I have checked the hangers and they are equal distance from each other and appear to be correctly located.
Ta
« Last Edit: 05/25/18 at 08:30:05 by PercyUK »  
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athawk11
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Re: Update
Reply #14 - 05/25/18 at 08:38:02
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Percy,
I'm thinking this is good news.  I have never measured the springs to see if the center bolt is equidistant, but I'll bet it's not.
  

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