3A & M38

Ryan thanks for the diagram. I found the first one but on the rear of the drag link they only show the use of 1 ball seat. On the second diagram they show both on the rear of the drag link. Both drawings show using ball plug on the bell crank end and 1 ball seat. I just couldn't figure out why they didn't use 2 ball seats on the rear on the first drawing unless they just didn't show it. Other than that I see no difference in the 2 images.

specialty wrote on 02/21/16 at 00:42:46:



I think I always used both on the rear like in the M38 diagram...I forget now. And yes, the repop dust shields are a terrible fit. If you have your original ones use those instead along with the new rubber dust covers. You may still need cable ties or hose clamps to keep them in place.

I've also found the repop threaded end plugs to be a poor fit and more than once have reused the originals.

I have an NOS M38 drag link complete with springs, seats plugs etc. Everything but the dust shields. Still in cosmoline. Let me know if you are interested.

If you are in there already I'd do all the bearings and seals for both steering knuckles. Much easier to get at them while you already have it all apart.

Below is a page from the service manual explaining the fish scale thing. The entire manual is available for download here if you don't already have it:

http://www.eastcoastwillys.org/universal-service-manual---cj2a--3a--3b--5--6---d...

Excellent stuff offered here by Ryan. 

Specialty,
Keep in mind that the instructions shown are describing the process for the newer style knuckle.  If you have the older style knuckles, you will not have a shoulder at the bottom of the king pin surface.  In this case, you will need to shim both the bottom and top of the king pin surfaces when dialing in your preload.

Tim

Ryan and Athawk, Okay just go it put together and I may have an issue, I don't know yet. The rear went fine. The front I put the spring seat, spring, and then the ball cup in that order like the drawing. I did find out my New adjusting plug would not screw flush with the end of the drag ling not because of threads but because it's longer than the old one. So I used my old one, it looked good other than the slots a little wore out.
My issue is that my bell crank ball does not go very far back into the smaller slot on the drag ling. Maybe about half the diameter of the ball is in the smaller part of the slot it goes into. Took it back apart to make sure the spring seat was no flipped or not in right and did it again with same results. Is this normal for the bell crank not to go to far back or am I missing something? I tighten the adjusting nut as far as possible yet it is not going back any further. I guess it cant come out as long as the adjusting screw does not back off. What you'all think? Normal?

Tumbleweed wrote on 02/22/16 at 16:10:27:

I did run the plug in the second time and it was fine but put the parts in and it only takes the bell crank ball back in the small part of the slot a little way. When the adjuster plug stops it stops right away indicating to me it's hitting solid.