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TomJ
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Brake light switch
06/06/13 at 20:18:55
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Okay...this is driving me nuts.  I've installed the second brake light switch, and just like the first one, it leaks. Now I'm wondering if I have a bad fitting for the master cylinder. I was looking at it before I put the second one in and the part that is threaded for the brake light switch to screw into isn't threaded all the way in which doesn't let the switch screw in to the point it tightens against the fitting inside.  Don't know if I'm describing this in an understandable way, does this make sense, anybody else remember having a problem like this?

Tom
  
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1955CJ-5
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Re: Brake light switch
Reply #1 - 06/06/13 at 21:06:50
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You might be right, the fitting may be worn. I believe it is a tapered thread so it just tightens up, it does not bottom out to seal.

The threaded portion of my switch is about 3/8" and there is still about 1/8" remaining when it starts to tighten up....but it continues to turn until it tightens and does not bottom out or run out of threads

Are you sure the copper washers were OK when you assembled  the master cylinder or have you not had it apart?
« Last Edit: 06/06/13 at 21:15:27 by 1955CJ-5 »  

1955 CJ-5, A friend for 55 years....1951 CJ-3A, a new addition. 1929 Model A Ford Closed Cab Pickup...
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athawk11
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Re: Brake light switch
Reply #2 - 06/06/13 at 23:54:38
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Good thought Randy.  I was wondering if Tom is missing the washer...?

Tim
  

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Macgraham
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Re: Brake light switch
Reply #3 - 06/07/13 at 11:39:11
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I got a new switch from Ron at G503 and it leaked around the pressed metal and plastic, not on the threads. Got one at a local Car Quest that worked.
  
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Paddy
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Re: Brake light switch
Reply #4 - 06/08/13 at 07:57:40
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Here are a couple thoughts as I went through this as well.  First make sure you have a new copper washer, secondly make sure that switch is really really really tight so that the copper washer deforms and thus forms a seal within the threads of the master cylinder.  If your body is off this is a lot easier.  If your body is already on, then I would recommend removing the front driver's fender for easier access, obtain a 24mm deep socket and a long extension for your ratchet and then crank that rascal down.  Yes 24mm and it has to be a deep socket to get around the electrical prongs so that you don't damage them.  If all that fails your final two solutions are permatex #2 on the threads or replace the master cylinder.  My guess is, you haven't cranked that switch hard enough to form a seal with the copper gasket.
  

Paul Hackett
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mtnman37879
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Re: Brake light switch
Reply #5 - 11/01/18 at 17:45:21
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I just installed a brand new switch from Quarter ton and military jeep parts. It leaks where the plastic meets the metal. JUNK SWITCH!
  

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